Anopolis, the true heart of Crete

Hi folks,

Crete is a land of traditions. Ok, that's a commonplace. Our countries tend to loose their traditions. That's progress! Yes... but I know a place. A special place in crete where traditions are not long gone. A place with history and beauty. The true heart of Crete. Well for what I know, and I don't know every village on the island. Anopolis has been in a very secluded area for centuries, lying high above the lybian sea (600 meters) in the white mountains. The village was linked, not so long ago, to Chora Sfakion on the south coast. This 12 km long road is scenic ... and impressive, people that suffer from vertigo will definitely hate it..

The village is located in a wide plain that sustains olive trees and a beautiful pine tree forest. It is delimited to the south by cliffs diving into the sea and to the north by summits rising steeply over 2000m. There may be 300 to 400 inhabitants all year round (little more in summer) scattered in 7 to 8 hamlets. The main hamlet, with the village square also features the statue of the local hero "Daskalogiannis". He gave his name to Chania's international airport (more on that man later). 

The situation of Anopolis makes it the perfect place for people who wish to spend holidays in a quiet place, far from tourist-busy resorts. But it also offers a good deal of great walks, from lazy strolls to mountain hikes:

• walk to Loutro resort
• walk in the Aradena gorge
• walk to Chora Sfakion
• walk to Askifou plain
• walk to Agios Ioannis, Sellouda and Agia Roumeli
• trek to Pachnes (highest summit in the Lefka Ori at 2453m)

Other sightseeings include:

• remains of the antique city (cyclopean walls at Riza settlement)
• Agia Ekaterini chapel (overlooking Loutro harbor)
• Aradena bridge (over the gorge) and chapel of Archangel Michael
• ruined hamlet of Mouri

Birdwatchers will enjoy the many gryffon vultures that can be spotted near the cliffs.

People here mainly live on agriculture and animal farming. Of course, tourism has become a substancial source of income but it has not changed the way people live there. This a strong community of shepherds that still rely on grazing areas high in the mountains. Families still own and operate Mitatos (mountain stone huts), dairies, in remote places (Katsiveli, Potamos...). Hunters regularly raid the Lefka Ori for hares and partridges. It's been said that some people in Anopolis are Vlachs (Aromanian). You will see people there, with blond hair and blue eyes. They share a tradition of fierce resistance to the invaders

• venitians
• ottomans
• germans

Proud and fierce people, but with a great sense of hospitality.

Daskalogiannis (Ioannis Vlachos)

He was born in Anopolis in 1722 from a Vlach family. Chairman of the Sfakia area, his nickname was "Daskalos" (means teacher) hence the name Daskalogiannis. With the support of Russia, he funded and raised a revolt - which started on the 25 march 1770 - against the Ottomans. Unfortunately, the russian fleet did not assist the rebellion, and by june 1771, after he finally surrendered, he was skinned alive at Heraklio by the Pasha of Candia. His death was immortalized in many poems and folk songs that celebrate his courage and dignity at the time death.

Giorti graviera

If you're in the area by mid-august, then a good opportunity to discover Anopolis is to come for a few days and mix with locals at the panigiri (village festival) on 15th august. The festival, named "giorti graviera" (cheese festival) is the occasion for celebrations, a large banquet at night with live cretan folk music and dances. This year (2010), Periklis Tsouganakis and his band entertained the crowd till dawn. They are fine artists playing frenzied jigs. The food was plenty and homemade. Local wine, raki, meat and cheese - unlimited for a reasonable fee (20 euros). By the way, I apologize for the quality of the video, the sound is saturated and nearby camera flashes overloaded my dslr sensor. And if you get to the end of the movie, you'll notice some ... scary traditions! .

Accommodations

The hotel and Taverna "O Platanos" is a pleasant address. Also, the kafeneio at the plateia is the perfect spot for drinking ouzo, raki (Nikos can arrange lifts up the shepherds road towards Roussies, on the way to Pachnes). My favorite address though is at the bakery. Giorgos Orfanoudakis, a very kind-hearted man, has very nice rooms for some 35 euros.

How to get there?

From Chania, drive all the way to Chora Sfakion (Sfakia) on the south coast. Then follow the road to Anopolis (12 km from Sfakia). A bus service operates from Chania. It departs by 2PM and arrives at Anopolis by 4h45PM. In the morning, a bus departs from Anopolis to Chania at 6h30AM.

So, see you at the Panigiri next year?