From Askifou to Livada, on the E4 trail

Hello everyone,

When I go walking into the Lefka Ori, and I do several times a year, I often come to think about how "civilized" some parts feel compared to others. The western (Omalos, Melindaou) and southern (Katsiveli, Roussies) areas feel "civilized", so that when I finally get there, coming from the north or east I feel some kind of relief - Now I'm safe!

What accounts for that feeling? why is there a safe and not-so-safe zone? While the E4 trail crosses the mountains from west to east and therefore ventures into the not-so-safe area, the commonly walked route follows a west to south pattern leaving the E4 at Katsiveli. You may meet trekkers on this route, and shepherds from Anopoli also. Beyond Katsiveli, further to the north and east, shepherds do not operate anymore, or very occasionaly. Hunters may be seen, but it is very likely that you'll be on your own. Footpaths exist but they are faint at times and waymarking is defective. The landscape also feels somewhat more dramatic, forbidden and harch. The safe zone comes with great possibilities for bivouac (Stone hut in Katsiveli), and good water can be found in three places: Katsiveli, Potamos and Roussies (this a lot for these mountains). On the other hand, Livada cistern is the only reliable water source you'll encounter past the safe zone limit. The not-so-safe zone is definitely worth a visit but excursions must be prepared with greater care. I'll provide here some insight on the E4 trail stage that starts from the Askifou plain (in the east) and ends at Livada. This is all in the not-so-safe area, and is more challenging than a range crossing from Omalos to Anopoli.

I have tried this walk twice, both times from Askifou.

• my first attempt, on the 8th and 9th of may 2009, was a failure. There is a steep pass, less than two hours from Livada, with a northern exposure that can hold snow late in the season. In the beginning of may 2009, the snow was icy and without adequate equipment we decided the risks were too high. We slept under the pass and walked straight north, without path until Melidoni village.
• my second attempt took place in early november of 2009. Snow had already fallen on the mountains, in small quantity, and we found conditions similar to that of our first attempt. However, the weather was unsettled and very powerful howling winds affected the mountains above 1600m, and in particular on Kastro north ridge. Under such conditions, the walk was very tiring. At places, and in particular at the steep pass there was nearly as much snow as there was on my first attempt. But the snow was fresh, not frozen, so with caution it was possible to continue towards Livada. On that second attempt, the winds were so strong that we pushed further to Katsiveli meadow and slept at Koumi hut. Glad we did, it snowed at night and we woke under a thunderstorm.

So, if I have one piece of advice, do try this walk between june and mid-october and when the weather is settled. Starting from Askifou in the afternoon is convenient since you can walk two and a half hours until Niato plain where there is water. The next day, it's a matter of 8-8h30 until Livada.

The walk

Access from Chania is easy, and I covered the start of the walk here. When you get to the eastern rim of niato plain, you are rewarded with gorgeous views of Kastro mountain which borders the plain to the west. On your right, you should see a concrete cistern. This is an option for an overnight stay. However, my favourite spot is not on the plain itself. The dirt road turns northward. Follow the road until you get to the northern rim of the plain. After about 200 meters, you will see a concrete cistern on the right. The water is very suitable for drinking and the place is perfect for an overnight stay. Besides, to reach the start of the footpath towards Livada, you only need to retrace your steps for 20 meters or so.

Try to depart early for Livada, the main effort (climbing Kastro's north ridge) is best done in the cool of the morning. At first, the path is easy to follow, climbing easily, with enough E4 poles. After about 30 minutes, the path levels out as you get into a wide reentrant. From there, look at the northern ridge of the reentrant, there you will spot E4 poles. Follow the ridge, still guided by E4 poles, until the path levels out and slowly begins to loose height. You have left the ridge and are now heading towards a saddle with a small flat-floored plain beneath. This place is called "Koutala Seli". From now on, there is no waymarking, and no path. You have to follow a dry water course climbing the northern bank of the valley. Climb steadily uphill following the water course. At some point, however, you'll have to turn to the left to get to the top of a ridge. Once at the top of the ridge, look for an E4 pole and walk to it. From here you overlook a large hollow of black rock and sandy basins. This is called Pavlia Harlara and is one of the most impressive sight in the range.

The path contours the north rim of the hollow, gradually loosing height until it ascents again, gently to reach a saddle north of a conical summit (Askifiotikos Soros). Right after the pass, aim for another near-perfect conical peak to the west. This is Grias Soros, the path leads in 45 minutes to a saddle between Grias Soros and Agia Pneuma (so bear for the northern base of Grias Soros). That particular place is commonly known as "Sideroportes" which means Iron Gates. The valley directly below the pass is a good place for a bivouac, you'll find some suitable ground for pitching a tent. However there is no water to be found. But if there is snow and you came with a stove you can stay overnight here.

Note: From this place, it is possible (not easy though) to go to melidoni village. You'd have to walk downhill north on steep ans slippery slopes. There are no waymarks here, and no paths, but if you're equiped with a GPS or a map, try to work your way towards Agia Pneuma church. At some point, you'll reach a path that will lead you to a spring and few minutes later to the chapel and a shepherds road heading for Melidoni.

Back to Sideoportes now. In good weather conditions, the saddle presents no difficulties, but if it is covered with snow it can be a dangerous place. After Sideroporti, you enter a valley and the path becames more and more defined. From now on the path is mainly going downhill, and after about one hour and a half, you reach a collapsed stone hut. To the north, you can see Livada, a valley that extends to the north-east. At the stone hut, a junction of footpaths develops:

• Walk north on a path leading to the cistern and then to the valley floor (plenty of good ground to pitch a tent!). The water supply comes from a spring on the slopes of the mountain bordering the south rim of the valley (Svourichti), a black pipe conveys the water to a cistern and sheep trough in a sink very near to the valley (but outside of it westward).
• Walk east on a good path with clear waymarking. In about 1h30 minutes you'll reach Katsiveli hut (Safe zone !).

Livada valley is still operated by shepherds, sheeps go grazing there. Nevertheless, Stone huts nearby all seem to be disused. To continue your trek from Livada, you have lots of options.

• walk to Katsiveli, then head westward to Omalos or southward to Anopoli (see walk description here)
• walk north to Kambi village.
• join Kolokithas valley and then walk to Therisso village.

Of course, these few lines are not enough to guide you safely all the way to Livada. I recommend you buy Loraine Wilson's book for an in-depth description: The high mountains of Crete, and use Anavasi maps of the area (paper or electronic form).

Timings

First day, roughly 2h30  

Second day, roughly 8 hours  

• Niato cistern to Koutala Seli : 3h30
• To Askifiotiko Soros pass: 2h00
• To Sideroportes : 0h45
• To Livada cistern : 1h30
• To Katsiveli (optional): 1h30

That's all for now. In the next days (or weeks!), I plan to cover other trekking possibilities in the Lefka Ori.

Until then, see you!