Hi folks,

The Lefka ori are a fairly small mountain range, you can plan a crossing  in 2 or three days. Among the possible routes, the two-day trek going from Omalos plain to Anopoli village is the most popular, it is also the easiest one and therefore is a good choice for trekkers without particular knowledge of the area. We're talking about high-mountain trekking (over 2000 meters at times), and whilst there are no particular difficulties, you should not go unless you know what to expect. In summer, water is a matter that must not be neglicted, it is very scarse up there. Knowing where and how to get water is of upmost importance.

(Views on Samaria from Melindaou)

Starting at a convenient place (entrance of the famous Samaria gorge), the trailhead is easy to reach from Chania city, by car or bus. It is also possible to sleep at Omalos hamlet or better at Kallergi refuge. This two-day trek is also popular because it combines with the ascent of Pachnes on the second day. Pachnes is the highest peak in the Lefka Ori at an altitude of 2453m. 

First day

The walk starts at a place called Xiloskalo, the entrance of samaria Gorge at about 1200 meters high. Looking south at the end of the asphalt road, you are facing the huge cliff of mount Gingilos, and if you turn left, to the east, you should spot a path going uphill. The (good) way-marking is typical E4, black and yellow stripes. After about 45 minutes, you will get to a fence and then to a dirt road. You have to follow the road uphill for another 45 minutes or so. Soon the road levels and you can see Kallergi refuge. You can buy beverages at the refuge, even spend the night for a not-so-early departure. You should also visit the outside WC which are quite spectacular! Be sure to replenish your bottles with water since you won't find (good) water until you reach Katsiveli meadow.

From the refuge, you have to follow the dirt road to the east as it gradually looses height. Soon you'll get  to a small settlement named Poria. There you have a choice, either follow the E4 path on the way to Melindaou summit, or take the "scenic" ridge road. The ridge road is quite spectacular and offers incredible views on the samaria gorge. However, I would advise you follow the E4 since the ridge route is longer and tougher. Those wishing to climb Melindaou as a 1 day trip can take the ridge until Melindaou and then come back on the E4 trail. Anyway, at Poria, continue on the dirt road that is gently going uphill. When you pass a wooden kiosk, stop and look at the mountain side on your right, the E4 path leaves the road and starts to climb the hillside. This marks the start of Melindaou ascent.

The ascent lasts for 3 hours, and you gain some 400 hundred meters in height. However, the path is good, clearly way-marked and the ascent is regular so that it is fairly easy. Soon the path engages on the south side of Melindaou. From there you get impressive views of Samaria gorge. These will be the last though. A painted arrow on a big stone will show you the way to the summit of Melindaou at 2133m (20 minutes way back). From this fork, the path goes straight on to the east. It will start losing height and soon you'll get to a small flat-floored, sandy valley. This comes as a welcome relief for your feet. There is a cistern there with no roof, but it has very poor water. Follow the path as it turns south-east. En-route you'll pass in front of a very small shelter (pirou mitato). This would come handy in case of rain, mist or high winds (not suitable for thunderstorms)

From Pirou mitato, continue on the path to the south. Soon you'll reach the north rim of Potamos valley. Potamos valley extends to the south, and (out of sight) evolves into the Eligas gorge which can be followed as far as the south coast. It has several cisterns with bad water and one corbelled cistern with good water. To reach that particular cistern, you'd have to go down the valley floor and follow the blue markings. But we're heading for Katsiveli, so instead follow the path as it turns to the east again and do not enter the Potamos valley. The path is going gently uphill, at time going down into sinkholes, and in a matter of 1h30 minutes you'll reach Katsiveli meadow.

Katsiveli meadow seats under the Svourichi and Modaki mountains. This small grazing pasture is operated by shepherds from Anopoli. The hut located on a small promontory is opened to passers-by. It is not locked and can sleep six people. The refuge that can be seen on a pass to the north is locked (keys must be obtained from Chania Alpine Club). There is also plenty of good ground to pitch a tent. During summer months (from mid-june to sometimes in october), shepherds will bring water to Katsiveli through a plastic pipe from a spring higher on Svourichti's slopes. Unfortunately, a bad winter may leave the pipe beyond repair and shepherds may choose to only operate in Potamos. So be prepared for a change of plans if you find no water here. The obvious choice is to go to roussies pass (it's on the way to Anopoli, only 1h20 minutes away and the cistern there has good water all year round). Other options would be to retrace your steps to Potamos and follow blue dots to the potamos cistern, or go to Livada valley (follow the E4 uphill to the refuge on the pass) but the cistern there is not easy to find - it's a bit aside the E4 path. If you have plenty of time (couple hours) you can follow the pipe on the svourichti until you reach the spring. Water gushes out from a pipe in the rock.

Second day

Starting from Katsiveli. You do not need to bring a lot of water. One liter would be enough since Roussies cistern is only 1h20 minutes away. From katsiveli, try to spot a path with red markings going uphill to the south (you are now leaving the E4 trail). The path is in regular use by trekkers and shepherds so it is quite easy to follow. This part of the mountains is very beautiful, you'll find almost no vegetation and the rocks look like rust. It feels a bit like on Mars! When you get at Roussies, you'll be rewarded with the sight of the huge mass of Trohari peak to the south. The small hut contains a bucket with a rope that you can use to get water from the cistern. However, clearly visible on Roussies saddle is a sign directing you to Pachnes. You can leave most of your stuff in the hut or hidden under stones, since the summit is 1h15 minutes away. The path going to Pachnes is relatively easy and in not time you'll reach the top of the Lefka Ori - Pachnes at an altitude of 2453 meters. The summit itself has nothing in particular, what makes it stand apart though, is its height and the fact that it is right in the heart of range, offering wide views of the central part of the mountains. Retrace your steps back to Roussies. Once there, follow the path due south. After some 20 minutes you'll reach a dirt road. Some minor scrambling may be required in order to climb down the road bank.

Follow the road for some kilometers into the Ammoutsera valley. The ammoutsera valley extends to the north in a maze of huge sinkholes and confusing ridges. It offers very impressive sights. Soon you'll pass an old, disused hut, and after few minutes you will finally leave the valley and have the possibility to see the south coast. You're out of the mountains, at about 1800m, but not yet in Anopoli! You have two options, either follow the road to Anopoli, this is very very long, but you might get a lift from locals, or try to follow the old mule track to Anopoli. Once you're out of Ammoutsera and you pass the first trees, look for blue markings on the right side of the road. When you have found the correct path, leave the road and follow the path as it gradually evolves into a ravine. This is called Sorata and goes straight down to Anopoli. The underfoot is very slippery at places and also very rocky, so take it easy, you'll need 3h30 to reach Anopoli. If the weather seems unsettled or it has rained before do not venture into Sorata.

Finally, at the end of the ravine, you'll meet the dirt road again, you're only few minutes from civilization! In Anopoli, there is a bus service for Sfakia and Chania, but it starts very early in the morning - 5h30 and may not be operating on week-ends. Enquire at Chania. You may get a lift from locals or tourists to sfakia and from there take a bus to Chania (last departure 7PM). Taxis are available (ask for their phone numbers in tavernas of anopoli).

Walking to Sfakia or Loutro is a possibility, but for each destination, you'll need 2 hours and trailheads are not easy to find (particularly for Sfakia). Last Ferry boats in Loutro depart for Sfakia at quarter past six.

Timings

First day, roughly 8-9 hours 

• Omalos to Kallergi refuge : 1h30
• Kallergi to Kiosk : 1h15
• To Melindaou : 2h45
• To Potamos rim : 1h30
• To Katsiveli: 1h30

Second day, 8-9 hours

• Katsiveli to Roussies: 1h20
• Roussies to Pachnes, and back: 2h30
• Roussies to Anopoli following the ravine: 4h30.

I hope, this description will inspire trekkers and make them pay a visit to these mountains. In the following posts I will talk about other possibilities for crossing the Lefka Ori.

Until then, see you!

Fabrice