From Askifou to Livada, on the E4 trail
Hello everyone,
When I go walking into the Lefka Ori, and I do several times a year, I often come to think about how "civilized" some parts feel compared to others. The western (Omalos, Melindaou) and southern (Katsiveli, Roussies) areas feel "civilized", so that when I finally get there, coming from the north or east I feel some kind of relief - Now I'm safe!
; "Pavlia Harlara")
; "Nearing Koutala Seli")
; "Askifiotiko Soros")
What accounts for that feeling? why is there a safe and not-so-safe zone? While the E4 trail crosses the mountains from west to east and therefore ventures into the not-so-safe area, the commonly walked route follows a west to south pattern leaving the E4 at Katsiveli. You may meet trekkers on this route, and shepherds from Anopoli also. Beyond Katsiveli, further to the north and east, shepherds do not operate anymore, or very occasionaly. Hunters may be seen, but it is very likely that you'll be on your own. Footpaths exist but they are faint at times and waymarking is defective. The landscape also feels somewhat more dramatic, forbidden and harch. The safe zone comes with great possibilities for bivouac (Stone hut in Katsiveli), and good water can be found in three places: Katsiveli, Potamos and Roussies (this a lot for these mountains). On the other hand, Livada cistern is the only reliable water source you'll encounter past the safe zone limit. The not-so-safe zone is definitely worth a visit but excursions must be prepared with greater care. I'll provide here some insight on the E4 trail stage that starts from the Askifou plain (in the east) and ends at Livada. This is all in the not-so-safe area, and is more challenging than a range crossing from Omalos to Anopoli.
Anopolis, the true heart of Crete
Hi folks,
Crete is a land of traditions. Ok, that's a commonplace. Our countries tend to loose their traditions. That's progress! Yes... but I know a place. A special place in crete where traditions are not long gone. A place with history and beauty. The true heart of Crete. Well for what I know, and I don't know every village on the island. Anopolis has been in a very secluded area for centuries, lying high above the lybian sea (600 meters) in the white mountains. The village was linked, not so long ago, to Chora Sfakion on the south coast. This 12 km long road is scenic ... and impressive, people that suffer from vertigo will definitely hate it..
(Anopolis festival)
The village is located in a wide plain that sustains olive trees and a beautiful pine tree forest. It is delimited to the south by cliffs diving into the sea and to the north by summits rising steeply over 2000m. There may be 300 to 400 inhabitants all year round (little more in summer) scattered in 7 to 8 hamlets. The main hamlet, with the village square also features the statue of the local hero "Daskalogiannis". He gave his name to Chania's international airport (more on that man later).
From Omalos to Anopoli, crossing the Lefka Ori
Hi folks,
The Lefka ori are a fairly small mountain range, you can plan a crossing in 2 or three days. Among the possible routes, the two-day trek going from Omalos plain to Anopoli village is the most popular, it is also the easiest one and therefore is a good choice for trekkers without particular knowledge of the area. We're talking about high-mountain trekking (over 2000 meters at times), and whilst there are no particular difficulties, you should not go unless you know what to expect. In summer, water is a matter that must not be neglicted, it is very scarse up there. Knowing where and how to get water is of upmost importance.
(Views on Samaria from Melindaou)
Starting at a convenient place (entrance of the famous Samaria gorge), the trailhead is easy to reach from Chania city, by car or bus. It is also possible to sleep at Omalos hamlet or better at Kallergi refuge. This two-day trek is also popular because it combines with the ascent of Pachnes on the second day. Pachnes is the highest peak in the Lefka Ori at an altitude of 2453m.
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