From Therisso to Agia Roumeli, trekking the Lefka Ori

Hi folks,

The hillside above Therisso is well fed with springs, which is quite unusual in the Lefka Ori range. There are three of them on the old transhumance trail to Kolokithas valley. Nowadays, sheperdhing activities still exist on this northern side of the mountains. I have met shepherds and herds on my way to Kolokithas, as far as Tria Matia pass.

Kolokithas probably was an important place long ago, there is a large mitato complex there, suggesting people did operate in the valley. From Kolokithas, it is possible to go to Livada and Pirou Mitato. These routes offer access respectively, to Livada and Potamos valley. They are disused however, and have been for quite some time. There are no real paths to be found (few segments here and there). The way to Kolokithas itself from Therisso is not well defined, and there are no waymarks. Last august, I had the opportunity to walk the trail, starting from Therisso to Agia Roumeli on the South coast. Read more

Cretan wilderness, from Sougia to Agia Roumeli

Hello everyone,

Among the three main mountain ranges in Crete, the Lefka Ori is the only one that has a coastline. The south side of the mountains is like a balcony on the lybian sea. The coast line is rugged, with barren cliffs cut by deep gorges. Among these, Samaria is the most famous gorge, but there are half a dozen more. The nature is wild and as a consequence, the place is not well developped. There are few infrastructures and ferry boats are the only way to travel between villages on the coast. The lack of roads, however, is a blessing for trekkers. Between Anidri beach near Paleochora, and Sfakia, three villages are linked by footpaths: Sougia, Agia Roumeli and Loutro. Read more

From Askifou to Livada, on the E4 trail

Hello everyone,

When I go walking into the Lefka Ori, and I do several times a year, I often come to think about how "civilized" some parts feel compared to others. The western (Omalos, Melindaou) and southern (Katsiveli, Roussies) areas feel "civilized", so that when I finally get there, coming from the north or east I feel some kind of relief - Now I'm safe!

What accounts for that feeling? why is there a safe and not-so-safe zone? While the E4 trail crosses the mountains from west to east and therefore ventures into the not-so-safe area, the commonly walked route follows a west to south pattern leaving the E4 at Katsiveli. You may meet trekkers on this route, and shepherds from Anopoli also. Beyond Katsiveli, further to the north and east, shepherds do not operate anymore, or very occasionaly. Hunters may be seen, but it is very likely that you'll be on your own. Footpaths exist but they are faint at times and waymarking is defective. The landscape also feels somewhat more dramatic, forbidden and harch. The safe zone comes with great possibilities for bivouac (Stone hut in Katsiveli), and good water can be found in three places: Katsiveli, Potamos and Roussies (this a lot for these mountains). On the other hand, Livada cistern is the only reliable water source you'll encounter past the safe zone limit. The not-so-safe zone is definitely worth a visit but excursions must be prepared with greater care. I'll provide here some insight on the E4 trail stage that starts from the Askifou plain (in the east) and ends at Livada. This is all in the not-so-safe area, and is more challenging than a range crossing from Omalos to Anopoli. Read more

Anopolis, the true heart of Crete

Hi folks,

Crete is a land of traditions. Ok, that's a commonplace. Our countries tend to loose their traditions. That's progress! Yes... but I know a place. A special place in crete where traditions are not long gone. A place with history and beauty. The true heart of Crete. Well for what I know, and I don't know every village on the island. Anopolis has been in a very secluded area for centuries, lying high above the lybian sea (600 meters) in the white mountains. The village was linked, not so long ago, to Chora Sfakion on the south coast. This 12 km long road is scenic ... and impressive, people that suffer from vertigo will definitely hate it..

The village is located in a wide plain that sustains olive trees and a beautiful pine tree forest. It is delimited to the south by cliffs diving into the sea and to the north by summits rising steeply over 2000m. There may be 300 to 400 inhabitants all year round (little more in summer) scattered in 7 to 8 hamlets. The main hamlet, with the village square also features the statue of the local hero "Daskalogiannis". He gave his name to Chania's international airport (more on that man later).  Read more

From Omalos to Anopoli, crossing the Lefka Ori

Hi folks,

The Lefka ori are a fairly small mountain range, you can plan a crossing  in 2 or three days. Among the possible routes, the two-day trek going from Omalos plain to Anopoli village is the most popular, it is also the easiest one and therefore is a good choice for trekkers without particular knowledge of the area. We're talking about high-mountain trekking (over 2000 meters at times), and whilst there are no particular difficulties, you should not go unless you know what to expect. In summer, water is a matter that must not be neglicted, it is very scarse up there. Knowing where and how to get water is of upmost importance.

Starting at a convenient place (entrance of the famous Samaria gorge), the trailhead is easy to reach from Chania city, by car or bus. It is also possible to sleep at Omalos hamlet or better at Kallergi refuge. This two-day trek is also popular because it combines with the ascent of Pachnes on the second day. Pachnes is the highest peak in the Lefka Ori at an altitude of 2453m.  Read more

Ascent of Kastro mountain

Hi folks,

The Lefka ori are a fairly small mountain range, you can plan a crossing  in 2 or three days. Among the possible routes, the two-day trek going from Omalos plain to Anopoli village is the most popular, it is also the easiest one and therefore is a good choice for trekkers without particular knowledge of the area. We're talking about high-mountain trekking (over 2000 meters at times), and whilst there are no particular difficulties, you should not go unless you know what to expect. In summer, water is a matter that must not be neglicted, it is very scarse up there. Knowing where and how to get water is of upmost importance.

Following my post on Gingilos mountain, I wanted to talk about another day-trip in the Lefka Ori, the ascent of Kastro mountain. Kastro is the last peak over 2000m to the east of the mountains, it seats above the Askifou plain at an elevation of 2218 meters. Unlike the walk to Gingilos, there is no path half of the way (except if you follow part of the E4 trail going to Omalos, but then it’s quite longer). Also, half the trek is virtually devoid of way-markings. Add the nature of the ground, very rough at places, and that accounts for a quite challenging walk aimed at experienced walkers. Regarding time allowance, I usually do the walk from Askifou to the top and then back to Askifou in about 7h30. I’m a fit walker and I know the way, so these may be optimistic for other people. I think 8 to 9 hours is a fair estimate. Read more

A day trip to Gingilos

Hello everyone,

This is the first in a serie of articles that I plan to post in the near future. They will focus on the numerous walk possibilities offered by the White mountains of Crete. The White Mountains (straight translation from the greek “Lefka Ori”) are a tiny range to the south-west of Crete. It’s tiny to our European standards, compared to the alps or Pyrenees, nevertheless, of the three main ranges in the island, it is the widest and most impressive. What makes these mountains stand aside from the others is a unique blend of unusual features:

•  Some peaks, standing above 2000 meters, are so close to the south coast that, as the crows fly, it’s a matter of 5 to 10 km to the lybian sea.
•  The center of the range is often referred to as a “high desert”. Barren with snow in the winter, stony desolation in summer, vegetation is very scarce and so is water. And yet, this does not prevent herds of goats from grazing there from june to October.
•  Mountains are mostly limestone, highly eroded at places with gorges cutting deep towards the sea.

In this post, I’ll present what is probably the most popular high-mountain walk in the range: Gingilos mountain. Read more